{"id":2437,"date":"2012-07-18T08:44:04","date_gmt":"2012-07-18T13:44:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/?p=2437"},"modified":"2015-03-14T06:17:18","modified_gmt":"2015-03-14T11:17:18","slug":"juke-custom-paddle-shifters-phase-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/2012\/07\/18\/juke-custom-paddle-shifters-phase-1\/","title":{"rendered":"Juke – Custom Paddle Shifters – Phase 1"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a>Not satisfied leaving well enough alone, I decided to add custom paddle shifters to my 2012 Nissan Juke. \u00a0For those that aren’t in the know, the Juke has a sport shift mode where you can ‘bump’ the auto shift unit up or down to up\/down shift. \u00a0..but that’s no fun… \u00a0 I wanted paddle shifters, and since there is no stock option, I decided to go the custom route. \u00a0Before jumping into the project, the main hurdle to overcome was to figure out how to add the paddles to the steering wheel. \u00a0In this case, the custom milled paddles I’m making would be mounted to the backside of the steering wheel and had to be wireless (for obvious reasons). \u00a0I am aware that this is not conventional and that many paddles are mounted to the steering column, but I wanted them on the steering wheel. \u00a0A suggestion<\/a> led me to a RF wireless remote (pic) that fit the ticket. \u00a0The plan is to embed the remote into the backside of the steering wheel, mod the buttons for ‘A’ and ‘B’ by adding wires out to the individual custom made paddle units.<\/p>\n

Phase 1 – enable functionality for controlling manual mode shifting using an RF remote. \u00a0This will be discussed here.<\/p>\n

Phase 2 – Custom CNC milled aluminum paddle shifter units mounted to the steering wheel. Stay tuned<\/p>\n

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Phase 1:<\/strong><\/span><\/h1>\n

Preface: \u00a0If you want to try this yourself, you take responsibility for anything that may result from it. \u00a0If you mess up, you risk frying one of the BCM which could cost you some serious coin. \u00a0There is no guarantee that this will work for you, or of the long term affects. \u00a0I know enough about electronics \/ car electrical systems to have confidence that this will work. \u00a0 If you don’t have this same confidence, then this may not be for you.<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Since I don’t have many hobbies (not), I’ve jumped into desktop CNC milling and recently picked up a MyDIYCNC<\/a>. \u00a0My first project will be the paddles. \u00a0I’ve modeled the unit \u00a0as shown here. \u00a0This will come in Phase II, but I wanted to show the end goal. \u00a0The view here is of the backside of the paddle. \u00a0The recessed area to the right is where the finger would rest when triggering the paddle. \u00a0The blank area to the right is going to hold a small switch (see image). \u00a0The switch will be mounted upside-down inside the paddle and will rest against the steering wheel. \u00a0The switch itself will serve to both trigger a shift as well as provide the ‘spring’ to allow the paddle to triggered as the switch compresses against the back of the steering wheel. \u00a0The far left side will be used to mount a tab to to attach the paddle to the steering wheel itself.<\/p>\n

The Juke manual mode shifter has some built-in checks to ensure that it is in the manual mode state and that the ‘up’ and ‘down’ shifts are not phantom shifts. \u00a0It does this with a few pins and an internal slide switch. Namely pins 7, 8, 9 and 10 (shown below). \u00a0 These pins can be seen circled red in the connector that mounts to the backside of the shifter pod. \u00a0The manual mode shifting is monitored by the car computer to ensure than a shift took place and also determines which way. \u00a0Reading the switching diagram to the right, the following can be interpreted:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Manual Mode engaged: \u00a0Pin 8 & 9 – no continuity between pin 10. \u00a0Pin 7 – continuity to 10.<\/li>\n
  2. Shift Up – Pin 9 continuity to 10, pin 8 &7 \u00a0no continuity<\/li>\n
  3. Shift Dn – Pin 8 continuity to 10, pin 9 & 7 no continuity<\/li>\n
  4. Shift unit connector wire colours: pin 7=brown, 8=green, 9=grey, 10=yellow<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    I wanted to do the mod as well as ensure the stock unit would still work as designed. \u00a0To do this, I had to tap into these wires to mimic the action of the shifter lever, but not disable the shifter itself. \u00a0The RF remote receiver has 2 relays – one for each button ‘A’ and ‘B’. \u00a0This was perfect as it allowed me to run parallel lines off pins 8 & 9 and connect them to pins A of each relay. \u00a0Pin 10 was connected to GND on both relays. \u00a0The default state of the relay had no continuity between Pin 8 & 10 and pin 9 & 10 (as per spec). When the RF remote buttons are pressed, continuity to pin 10 is triggered from (8 or 9). \u00a0The challenge was pin 7. \u00a0 Since pin 7 continuity needs to be broken when either 8 or 9 is triggered, it could not be connected to the relay as one of the relays would always keep continuity between 7 & 10 while the other relay would try to open it – not gonna work!<\/p>\n

    Jumping ahead, here is a demo of first part. \u00a0The RF remote controlling the switching. \u00a0Choppy video warning in 3…2…1….<\/p>\n