{"id":3197,"date":"2014-02-21T15:18:48","date_gmt":"2014-02-21T20:18:48","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/?p=3197"},"modified":"2017-04-26T11:23:34","modified_gmt":"2017-04-26T16:23:34","slug":"diy-quadcopter-build","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/2014\/02\/21\/diy-quadcopter-build\/","title":{"rendered":"DIY Quadcopter Build (MultiWii \/ NanoWii \/ Qbrain)"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Quad11.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright wp-image-3625 size-medium\" style=\"margin: 10px;\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Quad11-300x260.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"260\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Quad11-300x260.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Quad11.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a>If I didn&#8217;t have enough hobbies already&#8230; \u00a0I&#8217;ve just gotten myself into the world of quadcopters and flying. \u00a0I&#8217;ve never flown before. \u00a0My RC experience is limited to 4 wheels on the ground. \u00a0 \u00a0Navigating with 2 sticks and learning the world of yaw, elevation, pitch and throttle has become my next challenge. \u00a0I&#8217;ve wanted to learn how to fly for some time, so here we go..<\/p>\n<p>I&#8217;m not going to re-create the wheel as credit goes to the folks over at marginallyclever.com for putting together a great build log of the DIY\u00a0Betamax Quadcopter. \u00a0In a nutshell, for less than $300 you can build a very capable quad that should give you plenty of fun and also provide the ability to mount some small and light equipment. \u00a0There&#8217;s also lots of optional add-ons like GPS that will make the quad smart and more easy to use. \u00a0It also uses Arduino-compatible <a href=\"http:\/\/www.multiwii.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">MultiWii<\/a>\u00a0which is software that runs on the NanoWii to allow you to control your quad (or other RC machines).<\/p>\n<p><strong><br class=\"none\" \/><br class=\"none\" \/><br class=\"none\" \/><br class=\"none\" \/><!--more--><\/strong><\/p>\n<h2 id=\"tablepress-1-name\" class=\"tablepress-table-name tablepress-table-name-id-1\">Quadcopter Parts List<\/h2>\n\n<table id=\"tablepress-1\" class=\"tablepress tablepress-id-1\" aria-labelledby=\"tablepress-1-name\">\n<thead>\n<tr class=\"row-1\">\n\t<th class=\"column-1\">Part Description<\/th><th class=\"column-2\">Qty<\/th><th class=\"column-3\">Notes<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody class=\"row-striping row-hover\">\n<tr class=\"row-2\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.banggood.com\/GEMFAN-Carbon-Nylon-8045-CWCCW-Propeller-For-Quadcopters-1-Pair-p-950874.html?p=R90804949020201412E4<br \/>\n\"  target=\"_blank\">8045 Props <\/a><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">8<\/td><td class=\"column-3\">Get at least 8 sets of these - you will break them. Each set contains 1 CW &amp; 1 CCW prop.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-3\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.banggood.com\/5X-XT60-Male-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Plugs-For-RC-Battery-p-916559.html?p=R90804949020201412E4\" target=\"_blank\">Male XT60 connectors (5pcs\/bag) <\/a><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">1<\/td><td class=\"column-3\">(for the Qbrain power leads)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-4\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.banggood.com\/DYS-D2822-2282-1100KV-1450KV-1800KV-2600KV-Brushess-Motor-p-986145.html?p=R90804949020201412E4\" target=\"_blank\"> Brushless Outrunner 1100kv Motors<\/a><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">4<\/td><td class=\"column-3\">(suggest adding 1-2 spares as well)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-5\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.hobbyking.com\/hobbyking\/store\/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=22322&amp;aff=1141729\" target=\"_blank\">MultiWii NanoWii ATmega32U4 Micro Flight Controller USB\/GYRO\/ACC<\/a>   or <a href=\"http:\/\/www.banggood.com\/Crius-MWC-MultiWii-SE-V2-Standard-Multi-Copter-Flight-Control-Board-p-81428.html?p=R90804949020201412E4\" target=\"_blank\">Crius MultiWii v2.5 Flight Controller<\/a><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">1<\/td><td class=\"column-3\"><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-6\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.banggood.com\/Emax-Quattro-25A-X4-UBEC-Multirotor-4-in-1-Brushless-ESC-Quadcopter-KK-p-931805.html?p=R90804949020201412E4\" target=\"_blank\">4 x 25A Brushless Quadcopter ESC 2-4S 3A SBEC<\/a><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">1<\/td><td class=\"column-3\">There are a number of 4-in-1 ESCs out there. Get one that is at least 20Amps per channel.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-7\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.banggood.com\/Wholesale-BQY-Power-11_1V-2200mAh-Lipo-Battery-For-RC-Transmitter-C305-p-65643.html?p=R90804949020201412E4\" target=\"_blank\">11.1V 2200mAh 3s Lipo Battery For RC Transmitter<\/a><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">1<\/td><td class=\"column-3\">For use with the 9x transmitter. (much better than a batch of AA batteries). Just make sure it fits the battery compartment.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-8\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.banggood.com\/SkyRC-IMAX-B6-Digital-RC-AC-Lipo-Li-polymer-Battery-Balance-Charger-p-912239.html?p=R90804949020201412E4\" target=\"_blank\">LiPo Balancer\/Charger<\/a><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">1<\/td><td class=\"column-3\">Get a good quality LiPo balance charger.  You dont want to screw around with chraging LiPo's<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-9\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.banggood.com\/Small-ExplosionProof-Bag-For-Liion-Battery-Of-Rc-Toys-p-925170.html?p=R90804949020201412E4\" target=\"_blank\">Lithium Polymer Charge Pack<\/a><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">1<\/td><td class=\"column-3\">This is a MUST if you have LiPo's and charge them.  We all don't want to burn down our houses!<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-10\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.banggood.com\/Wholesale-FlySky-Upgrade-FS-TH9X-FS-TH9XB-2_4G-9CH-RC-Remote-Control-Transmitter-Mode-2-p-47904.html?p=R90804949020201412E4\" target=\"_blank\">Transmitter<\/a><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">1<\/td><td class=\"column-3\">You'll need a transmitter of course.  The FlySky is a very popular Asian knock-off that has many features of the more expensive transmitters.  This is the same as the Turnigy 9x.  I also recently updated mine with Er9x firmware - highly recommended.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<!-- #tablepress-1 from cache -->\n<h3><strong><br class=\"none\" \/>Tips:<\/strong><\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>You&#8217;re going to want to mounted something to aid in hard landings to the bottom of the quad if you are a noob like me. \u00a0I&#8217;ve bounced this thing off the ground too many time to count as I have been learning to fly. \u00a0 I started with a pool noodle cut into doughnuts ($1.99. \u00a0Nuff said), and since moved to sections of PVC pipe (see further down).<\/li>\n<li>I suggest at least 2-3 sets of props. \u00a0I&#8217;ve already trashed <del>1 prop and 1 is dinged<\/del>\u00a0(now 6). Remember you will need 2 props per direction. \u00a02CW, 2 CCW.<\/li>\n<li>Motors &#8211; I only bought 4 and have bent 1 shaft in the first 20 minutes of flying. \u00a0I suggest getting 1 or 2 extra motors. \u00a0(Edit &#8211; I have now had the quad for nearly 1 yr, and have replaced 6 shafts. \u00a0Each time I crash I always have 2 good motors, swap them out, then after flying go and install new shafts to the bent ones.<a href=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Quad2.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignright size-thumbnail wp-image-3624\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Quad2-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"Quad2\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Quad2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Quad2-64x64.jpg 64w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Quad2-128x128.jpg 128w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Quad2-320x320.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a><\/li>\n<li>If you end up going with the\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.hobbyking.com\/hobbyking\/store\/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=18967&amp;aff=1141729\" target=\"_blank\">D2822\/17 Brushless Outrunner 1100kv<\/a>\u00a0motors, \u00a0I came across readily available<a href=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Traxxas2640Replacement.jpg\" target=\"_blank\"> Traxxas 2640<\/a> RC shock towers. \u00a0Yep! \u00a0They have the exact diameter (3.15mm) as the motor shafts, but are a bit longer (but are easily cut down). \u00a0I&#8217;ve copied a pic below and can confirm that these fit just fine. \u00a0The 2640&#8217;s are available at most hobby stores. \u00a0I even found them at FutureShop (Canada)&#8230; \u00a0This is a much cheaper alternative than replacing the motors. \u00a0Update Dec 2014: \u00a0I&#8217;ve had this quad for 8 months now and have bent a total of 5 shafts to date (and counting). \u00a0Just did two today. \u00a0These Traxxas shafts have saved me a lot of coin.<\/li>\n<li>You will want to cover the electronics with a dome. I have a makeshift top cover. \u00a0If you look close enough you will see its from a Logitech mouse <a href=\"http:\/\/www.examiner.com\/images\/blog\/wysiwyg\/image\/AnywhereMouseMXBox.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">package <\/a>and it works like a charm.<\/li>\n<li>Don&#8217;t finalize any gluing or irreversible securing of components until you have fully tested the unit. \u00a0Use zip ties or quality tape to do it. \u00a0In most cases, zip ties will do for good since you can just cut them if you need to move something.<\/li>\n<li>Fly in an open area clear from anything that bleeds! Yes. \u00a0Those props are sharp and, with the speed they spin, you will loose a finger or gash yourself if the quad gets out of control. \u00a0I did my first test flight in the basement with full winter jacket, hat and gloves on. \u00a0..and, flying in the basement is not the best approach either. \u00a0 Too restrictive.<\/li>\n<li>Settings: \u00a0When you get to setting the various stick ranges using MutiWiiConf.exe as described on the tutorial link above, if you are a noob like me, I suggest lowering the &#8220;Rate&#8221; value to something like 0.65 to start. You can see what I am talking about\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/learn.marginallyclever.com\/images\/9\/9b\/Multiwii.png\" target=\"_blank\">here<\/a>. \u00a0Look for the xy chart to the mid left that shows Rate 0.90 and Expo 0.65. \u00a0Click in the green box beside Rate, drag your mouse until it lowers to 0.65. \u00a0Don&#8217;t forget to click Write to write your settings back to the board. \u00a0When I first started, the value was 0.90 and I could not stabilize the copter as the yaw and pitch are too sensitive for me. \u00a00.65 makes it easier to control while I learn. \u00a0I may even lower it a bit more until I get better. \u00a0 \u00a0Of course, when you become an expert, you will want that value back up to 0.90 or more&#8230;.<\/li>\n<li>Don&#8217;t forget that each time you download a modified sketch, you must re-rerun MultiWiiConf.exe and confirm settings \/ Calibrate the ACC.<\/li>\n<li>Arming your quad: \u00a0You will likely read a number of other references that indicate to move the Yaw\/Pitch stick to the bottom right \/ left. \u00a0For my NanoWii, simply moving the Yaw (throttle) stick (left on Mode 1 transmitters) to the right and holding it there for a second or two did the trick. \u00a0To disarm, move the stick to the left side and hold it there.<\/li>\n<li>Watch out when reading the manuals. I&#8217;ve already found 1 pinout error in the hobbyking manual for the NanoWii. \u00a0See below under Bluetooth<\/li>\n<li>I&#8217;ve had my quad for about a year now and I&#8217;ve added lots of bits to it such as a lost model alarm, low battery alarm, FPV gear as well a some other custom bits. \u00a0If you do this, make sure you always check to ensure the quad is balanced at the centerpoint. \u00a0If it is not balanced, some of the motors have to work harder to keep the quad level &#8211; which will waste power and shorten flight times.<\/li>\n<li>Start with the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/800px-Multiwii.png\" target=\"_blank\">following<\/a>\u00a0PID settings in MultiWiiConfig.<br \/>\n<!--more--><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If you want to build your own, break out the credit card and simply follow the guide. \u00a0I also suggest reviewing some of the approaches I have taken in the event you run into troubles. \u00a0My build is nearly identical except I purchase an X550 frame. \u00a0I&#8217;ve also created a parts list below of the items I purchased which are for the most part the same with a few exceptions.<\/p>\n<h3><strong style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\">Qbrain ESC Pins:<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>In my case, the below images show the wiring\/pins between the NanoWii and QBrain ESC. \u00a0There may be some differences in wiring colours. \u00a0 For reference purposes, my QBrain had the following assignments for each ESC: \u00a0S1 Red, \u00a0S2 Orange, S3 White, S4 Brown. \u00a0The pins are shown connected on the left side of the below image.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>\u00a0[ad name=&#8221;GoogleAS728x90ImgOnly&#8221;]<\/strong><\/p>\n<h3><strong>Qbrain BEC power:<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>When following the Betamax Quadcopter build, and after doing some research, it appeared that the ideal way to power the NanoWii was by using the 3-Pin BEC and plugging it into the pinset shown to the left (3rd from the top where the white pin is shown). \u00a0This would have as Black Red White for that row. \u00a0To provide power using this approach, SJ2 was bridged with solder. However, this did not work for me. \u00a0The BEC wire had 5V from the QBrain but nothing would work when I plugged it into the NanoWii. \u00a0I finally gave up and pulled the 5V and GND from the BEC and put them to the power pins (shown at the bottom of the pic). \u00a0IMPORTANT &#8211; if you do this, make sure you do <strong>NOT<\/strong> have SJ2 bridged or poof! Out comes the smoke!<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Failsafe<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>One thing you need to ensure you have set-up and tested is the MultiWii Failsafe feature for you quad. \u00a0As I am still learning the contents of the multiwii code, I am sure there are other settings in addition to those below (i.e GPS RTH) to enhance this feature. \u00a0When I was researching this, I found many threads that suggested that the \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.hobbyking.com\/hobbyking\/store\/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=8991&amp;aff=1141729\" target=\"_blank\">Turnigy 9x<\/a>\u00a0\/ <a href=\"http:\/\/www.banggood.com\/Wholesale-FlySky-Upgrade-FS-TH9X-FS-TH9XB-2_4G-9CH-RC-Remote-Control-Transmitter-Mode-2-p-47904.html?p=R90804949020201412E4\" target=\"_blank\">FlySky<\/a> transmitter does not have a failsafe feature &#8211; which I confirmed it doesn&#8217;t. \u00a0However, the MultiWii code does and I confirmed today that it does work with the 9x.<\/p>\n<p>Essentially, what the 9X does is when the transmitter is turned off, the receiver holds the last settings it had before power was lost (you can confirm this in the MultiWiiConf application by doing a test). \u00a0 Then, the MultiWii code detects power loss by not seeing the pulses from the TX. \u00a0This triggers the failsafe code to kick in (shown below). \u00a0What it will do is throttle down (see FAILSAFE_THROTTLE) to a value you set that will allow the quad to gracefully drop to the ground. \u00a0In my case it is MINTHROTTLE (1100) + 250 = 1350. You can determine what you should change the value for this by doing some simple tests in the field. \u00a0I found that having the throttle just below the mid stick level spins the motors at a speed that allows the quad to slowly come down. \u00a0When looking at MultiWiiConf, this position shows about 1350 in the GUI. \u00a0I changed the value to 250.<\/p>\n<p>To get it working, I followed a few steps:<\/p>\n<p>1) On the transmitter go to Settings &gt; Fail Saf &gt; then set THR F\/S to 000%. \u00a0I am not positive this is necessary, but found threads that suggested it needed to be done.<\/p>\n<p>2) In config.h, uncomment the below settings to enable the failsafe feature:<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: 'courier new', courier;\"> #define FAILSAFE \/\/ uncomment to activate the failsafe function <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: 'courier new', courier;\">#define FAILSAFE_DELAY 10 \/\/ Guard time for failsafe activation after signal lost. 1 step = 0.1sec &#8211; 1sec in example <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: 'courier new', courier;\">#define FAILSAFE_OFF_DELAY 200 \/\/ Time for Landing before motors stop in 0.1sec. 1 step = 0.1sec &#8211; 20sec in example <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: 'courier new', courier;\">#define FAILSAFE_THROTTLE (MINTHROTTLE + 250) \/\/ (*) Throttle level used for landing &#8211; may be relative to MINTHROTTLE &#8211; as in this case (you may need to play around with the 250 value) <\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-family: 'courier new', courier;\">#define FAILSAFE_DETECT_TRESHOLD 985<br class=\"none\" \/> <\/span><\/p>\n<p>3) Testing the feature can be done a number of different ways. \u00a0If you don&#8217;t want to loose a finger, or your quad, I suggest taking off the props, turning the transmitter and quad on (while on the floor), \u00a0set the throttle to 75%, then turn off the transmitter. \u00a0If you are using the above code, after about a second or so, you will notice the motors spin down to the level 1350 (in my case) would give you (about 45%). \u00a0It will do this for 20 seconds (see FAILSAFE_OFF_DELAY) which allows the quad to make it to the ground. \u00a0After the 20 seconds is up, it will turn the motors off. \u00a0Give it a try and see if it works.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Connecting a Bluetooth \/ OLED Module:<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>Update: \u00a0 I&#8217;ve since added an I2C OLED display module which changed the Bluetooth pins I&#8217;ve identified below. \u00a0 If you are not using an OLED module, follow the steps below, else follow the OLED + BT steps.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Bluetooth Only:<\/span><\/p>\n<p>If you want to change settings on the fly in your quad, this is the next step once you&#8217;ve figured out the basics. \u00a0 Connecting a Bluetooth module will allow you to remotely configure the quad from an Android or other device. \u00a0Check out MultiWii EZ-GUI for a nice app that will do this for you. \u00a0Before you get started, the <a title=\"Manual\" href=\"http:\/\/www.hobbyking.com\/hobbyking\/store\/uploads\/741171780X846863X47.pdf\" target=\"_blank\">PDF<\/a> \u00a0in the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.hobbyking.com\/hobbyking\/store\/__22322__MultiWii_NanoWii_ATmega32U4_Micro_Flight_Controller_USB_GYRO_ACC.html\" target=\"_blank\">files<\/a>\u00a0for the NanoWii\u00a0section that shows the pinouts for the Spektrum satellite ports is WRONG!!! (we need to use the RX in that connector for the Bluetooth). \u00a0The RX is the right hand pin (the manual says it&#8217;s the middle). For folks trying to get bluetooth working, here is what I did (using MWC 2.2):<\/p>\n<p>1) In MWC config.h make sure #define &#8220;SERIAL1_COM_SPEED 115200&#8221; is un-commented.<\/p>\n<p>2) I&#8217;m using a HC-06 Bluetooth module (from DX), but they should all be the same. I changed the baud to 115200 (see <a href=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/2013\/12\/31\/hc-06-bluetooth-module-getting-this-sucker-into-at-command-mode\/\" target=\"_blank\">this<\/a>) for details on how to change it)<\/p>\n<p>3) Connect the BT VCC to either the 3.3v pin (just above the TX pin) or the 5V BEC VCC pin (this depends on what your BT module needs). I&#8217;ve got it working on the 3.3v pin (even though it should be 5V)<\/p>\n<p>4) Connect the BT RX to the NanoWii TX (bottom left pin)<\/p>\n<p>5) Connect the BT TX to the NanoWii RX (right pin on Spektrum satelline 3 pin connector).<\/p>\n<p>Voila it should work with your app. I&#8217;m using the Android MultiWii EZ-GUI<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">Bluetooth and OLED:<\/span><\/p>\n<ol>\n<li>\u00a0Bluetooth Module: \u00a0Looking at the Sat (3 pin connector &#8211; below top left) &#8211; \u00a0 Pin 1 goes to BT VCC, pin 2 goes to BT GND, pin 3 goes to BT TX. \u00a0 In the image below, the TX pin is marked with the BT TX (blue\/green text) but it does not show the pin post soldered in. This is the TX pin and goes to BT RX.<\/li>\n<li>OLED Module: \u00a0Looking at the 6 pins with posts (below pic &#8211; note the post for TX is not soldered in pic) at the top of the board: The first is 3v3, the next is SDA, the next is SCL and the next is GND. \u00a0Connect these to the matching pins on the OLED. \u00a0Note, to get the LCD working, you will have to un-comment LCD-related lines in your config.h file. See <a href=\"http:\/\/www.multiwii.com\" target=\"_blank\">www.multiwii.com<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n<h3><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><strong><br class=\"none\" \/>Baro \/ Angle Mode using a 3-Position Switch &#8211; 9x Default Firmware<\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3275 alignleft\" style=\"margin-left: 30px; margin-right: 30px;\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/9xAux3.jpg\" alt=\"9xAux3\" width=\"323\" height=\"217\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/9xAux3.jpg 323w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/9xAux3-300x201.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 323px) 100vw, 323px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Note: Details on setting this up on er9x are below.<\/p>\n<p>I was lookin<span style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\">g to\u00a0<\/span>switch between normal Acro mode, Angle Mode (stabilize) and Baro (Altitude Hold) from my Turnigy 9x. \u00a0I wanted to use the Aux3 F. Mode (mix) 3 way toggle switch (see pic).<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\">1. On your Turnigy 9x &#8211; Go to the AUX-CH menu and set CH6 to &#8220;PIT TRIM&#8217; \u00a0The Pitch Trim dial will be the &#8220;basis&#8221; for the mix. In my case, I left the trim dial at the lowest value (all\u00a0<\/span><span style=\"line-height: 1.5em;\">the way counter clockwise).<\/span>. below) to flip between the 3 modes. \u00a0Given I&#8217;m still learning, there may be other ways to do this. \u00a0After some <a href=\"http:\/\/www.rcgroups.com\/forums\/showthread.php?t=1688780\" target=\"_blank\">research<\/a>, here&#8217;s what I found that make it work.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 50%;\">2. Go to PROG-MIX menu and enter MIX 1, then enter the following settings:STATE ACT<br \/>\nMASTER FLP<br \/>\nSLAVE AUX (The first one &#8211; there are 2 AUX values to select from)<br \/>\nOFFSET -100<br \/>\nUPRATE -100<br \/>\nDNRATE -100<br \/>\nSW NOR3. Go in to MIX 2 and enter the following settings:<br \/>\nSTATE ACT<br \/>\nMASTER FLP<br \/>\nSLAVE AUX (the second AUX)<br \/>\nOFFSET 000<br \/>\nUPRATE 100<br \/>\nDNRATE 100<br \/>\nSW ID24. \u00a0Go into MIX 3 and enter the following settings:STATE ACT<br \/>\nMASTER FLP<br \/>\nSLAVE AUX (the first AUX)<br \/>\nOFFSET 100<br \/>\nUPRATE 100<br \/>\nDNRATE 100<br \/>\nSW ID2(note, the link above indicated that only 2 mixes were necessary. However, I had to add the 3rd mix in order to get the 3rd position to work.For the values to register on the Quad, you have to enable Baro in MultiWii. \u00a0I also have the 9x receiver channel 7 running to the Aux1 pin on the NanoWii. \u00a0The following shows the 3 modes registering in MultiWii Config (Android version)<\/td>\n<td><a href=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/9xMixing.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-3276\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/9xMixing-278x300.jpg\" alt=\"9xMixing\" width=\"278\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/9xMixing-278x300.jpg 278w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/9xMixing.jpg 662w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 278px) 100vw, 278px\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<h3><span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><strong>Baro \/ Angle Mode using a 3-Position Switch &#8211; er9x Firmware<\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n<p>Jan 2015 &#8211; Hearing all sorts of good things about <a title=\"er9x Firmware\" href=\"https:\/\/code.google.com\/p\/er9x\/\" target=\"_blank\">er9x<\/a>, I figured what better way to have fun on a cold Sunday in January. \u00a0 \u00a0The process for setting up mixing is similar to above, but not as complex (and makes more sense AFAIC)&#8230; \u00a0 Similar to above, I have Ch7 on the RX going to Aux1 on the Nanowii. \u00a0 \u00a0 The difference in this case is that it did not require using the Pitch Trim Aux channel. As a result only 1 channel gets tied up here. \u00a0The purpose is to allow Aux 2 (3 position switch on the Turnigy 9x) to switch between flight modes. \u00a0I also recently added a Mag sensor (compass) as I am still a noob at flying and need all the help I can get. &#8230;and of course, I like to muck around and figure things out. \u00a0 \u00a0I was aiming for 3 modes here.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>First \u00a0step is to set-up the Transmitter. \u00a0In er9x, go to the Mixer settings.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Scroll down to CH7 and create a new mix. Modify as follows.\n<ul>\n<li>Source = FULL<\/li>\n<li>Weight = 0<\/li>\n<li>Switch = ID 0<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Exit the mix for CH7 (Exit Button).<\/li>\n<li>Scroll down to CH7. Press &#8220;MENU&#8221; once, select &#8220;INSERT&#8221;create a new sub-mix. Use the following settings:\n<ul>\n<li>Source = FULL<\/li>\n<li>Weight = 50<\/li>\n<li>Switch = ID1<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Exit the mix for CH7 submix 1 (Exit Button).<\/li>\n<li>Again, scroll down to CH7. Highlight submix 1 and press &#8220;MENU&#8221; once, select &#8220;INSERT&#8221; create another sub-mix. (this will be a second mix under Ch7). Use the following setttings:\n<ul>\n<li>Source = FULL<\/li>\n<li>Weight = 100<\/li>\n<li>Offset = 55<\/li>\n<li>Switch = ID2<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n<li>Once complete, programming the Tx is done.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<table>\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td style=\"width: 50%;\">The next step is to test the settings. \u00a0On the Tx, go to &#8220;MENU&#8221;, then select &#8220;Radio Setup&#8221;, scroll to &#8220;DiagSwtch&#8221;. \u00a0Look for ID1 and ID2. With the toggle switch set to &#8220;N&#8221;, both will show &#8220;0&#8217;s&#8221;. Toggling the switch to &#8220;1&#8221; (middle position) should show ID1 = 1. Toggling the switch to &#8220;2&#8221; (bottom position) should show ID1 = 0 and ID2 = 1. \u00a0 You can also see this on the home screen when you scroll to the graphical display &#8211; it will show the bar being full left, none, then full right. \u00a0Example of what it should look like when done (sorry for the bad pic).<\/td>\n<td><a href=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/er9xMixer1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-3569 size-medium\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/er9xMixer1-300x150.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"150\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/er9xMixer1-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/er9xMixer1.jpg 500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Now plug your computer into your quad and start MultiWiiConf. \u00a0Turn on your Tx. \u00a0When you toggle the switch through the 3 positions, you should see Aux 1 going from a low value ~9xx to a medium value ~1500 and a high value ~1900. \u00a0The numbers are not as important is seeing the graphical bar grow from left to right. \u00a0If you do not see this, it is likely because you have got the wrong wire connected to the receiver (make sure it&#8217;s connected to Ch7).<\/p>\n<p>Once this is confirmed, you can now set which features are to be enabled with each toggle. \u00a0One thing that confused me is that I expected to see each of the &#8220;L&#8221;, &#8220;M&#8221; and &#8220;H&#8221; columns highlight in the Aux 1 section of MultiWiiConfi highlight when I toggled the switch. \u00a0However, you have to first tell it what you want it to do. \u00a0For each mode, move the mouse into the box and check it. \u00a0For each one, make sure to click the &#8220;Write&#8221; button to commit the changes to the controller. Each time, also click &#8220;Read&#8221; to ensure the box is still checked. \u00a0Go through each toggle N, 1 and 2 and set the modes. \u00a0Once done, you should see the Mode components highlight green as you toggle the switch. \u00a0The boxes should remain checked for the settings you set.<\/p>\n<p>For my setup, I configured as follows:<\/p>\n<p>Tx Switch at &#8220;N&#8221; (home position) &#8211; <strong>Angle mode<\/strong> (I need all the help I can get !)<\/p>\n<p>Tx Switch at &#8220;1&#8221; (middle position) &#8211; <strong>Mag and Angle Mode<\/strong> \u00a0&#8211; allows the quad to auto-level itself as well as keep Yaw heading the same way ( essentially I don&#8217;t want the &#8216;front&#8217; of the quad rotating due to drift&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p>Tx Switch at &#8220;2&#8221; (bottom position) \u00a0<strong>Mag + Anagle + Baro Mode<\/strong> &#8211; all the above + hover at the height it was when toggled to this mode.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-3573 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/MWii24FLightModes1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"455\" height=\"397\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/MWii24FLightModes1.jpg 455w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/MWii24FLightModes1-300x262.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 455px) 100vw, 455px\" \/><\/p>\n<h3><\/h3>\n<h3><strong>Trimming Inputs (ER9x):<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>Having recently updated my TX firmware, I had to set the trims for the 4 main channels (Thr, Ail, Rud, Elev). \u00a0This is more of a reminder for myself and for posterity sakes. \u00a0To get my quad trims aligned for all 4 channels in MultiWii, I had to first go into Mixer and ensure all channels were set to 120%. \u00a0See pic below.<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3586\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/IMG-20150125-00460.jpg\" alt=\"Mixer - Endpoints\" width=\"600\" height=\"318\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/IMG-20150125-00460.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/IMG-20150125-00460-300x159.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/>Pretty self explanatory on how to do this on the screen. \u00a0Then, clicking the Limits, I had modify the subtrim for each channel to get the mid-stick levels as close to 1500 as possible in MultiWii Gui (see pic above for examples &#8211; which are not trimmed &#8211; eg 1470). \u00a0Sorry for the lame picture quality. \u00a0To adjust each sub-trim, have the quad connected to MultiWii Gui, and navigate to CH1&#8217;s subtrim, click\u00a0Menu, then the Up\/Dn key to modify (by 0.1 increments) while watching value\/bars in MultiWii Gui. Get the value as close to 1500 as possible. Hit Menu to save. \u00a0Do the same for the rest of the channels. \u00a0For the Throttle, you will have to center the stick first. \u00a0In my case, I also had to adjust the endpoints of the Throttle as \u00a0I was having issues not being able to arm the quad (the original low value was &lt; 1000). \u00a0I got it up to about 1015 or so.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-3583 size-full\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/IMG-20150125-004611.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"329\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/IMG-20150125-004611.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/IMG-20150125-004611-300x165.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/p>\n<h3>\u00a0Lost Model Alarm:<\/h3>\n<p>It&#8217;s always a good idea to have a lost model alarm in the event that your quad goes down in the bush or off into the distance. \u00a0You can buy one, or DIY your own. \u00a0As usual, I went the DIY route and built my own\u00a0using an ATTiny to provide some enhanced functionality\u00a0&#8211; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/2015\/01\/01\/quadcopter-enhanced-lost-model-alarm\/\">check it out<\/a>.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Landing Gear:<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">As a first time flyer, I was certain there would be a lot of crashes, so I wanted to protect this \u00a0thing during hard landings. \u00a0 I started with cutting segments of a pool noodle and then using zipties to secure them to the ends of each leg. \u00a0 These work great BTW, but they also wear out fast. \u00a0In my search for another solution, I came across a <a title=\"Sewer Coupling (Canplas 414314RTL 4-in dia. PVC Sewer Drain Coupling)\" href=\"http:\/\/www.lowes.ca\/pipe-fittings\/canplas-414314rtl-4-in-dia-pvc-sewer-drain-coupling_9624305.html\" target=\"_blank\">sewer coupling<\/a> while browsing the new Lowes in our area &#8211; cant complain for $4 CAD. \u00a0There are lots of similar products out there, but many of them are too thick (walled) and won&#8217;t have the bounce necessary to add spring to a hard landing. \u00a0 This one has a wall thickness of ~3mm &#8211; which turned out to be ideal. \u00a0After cutting the pipe into 4 sections approx. 15mm wide, I had a full set of landing gear. \u00a0 There&#8217;s also enough pipe left to make a second set as well. \u00a0 You can see these units mounted in the pic at the beginning. They work well and, if anything, are a bit bouncy. \u00a0I&#8217;m going to add some chair leg end stops (the cloth-like sticky ones) to help soften the bounce. \u00a0Also, the PVC has a lot of flex to it and does not warp unless a lot of force is applied. However, this is what I want in case of a really bad fall.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/LowesSewerCoupling.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-thumbnail wp-image-3296\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/LowesSewerCoupling-150x150.jpg\" alt=\"LowesSewerCoupling\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/LowesSewerCoupling-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/LowesSewerCoupling-64x64.jpg 64w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/LowesSewerCoupling-128x128.jpg 128w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/LowesSewerCoupling-320x320.jpg 320w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h3><strong>Receiver Pins:<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p>The receiver pins are connected as shown on the right side. \u00a0In my case, mine had 2 gray pins (nice!). \u00a0However, its pretty easy as they are simply in the same order of sequence between the TX and NanoWii (see 2nd image below)<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_3204\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-3204\" style=\"width: 399px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-3204\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/NanoWiiWiring.jpg\" alt=\"NanoWiiWiring\" width=\"399\" height=\"374\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/NanoWiiWiring.jpg 399w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/NanoWiiWiring-300x281.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 399px) 100vw, 399px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-3204\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">NanoWii Close-Up. Pin Assignments.<br \/>Note the BEC standard 3 pin 5V|GND|Signal cable did not work. Moved 5V and GND to 2 power pins at bottom.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/QuadPinAssts.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-3205  aligncenter\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/QuadPinAssts-300x259.jpg\" alt=\"QuadPinAssts\" width=\"300\" height=\"259\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/QuadPinAssts-300x259.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/QuadPinAssts.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3235\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/22322-1.jpg\" alt=\"22322-1\" width=\"565\" height=\"414\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/22322-1.jpg 565w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/22322-1-300x219.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 565px) 100vw, 565px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3230\" src=\"http:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Traxxas2640Replacement.jpg\" alt=\"Traxxas 2640 shaft\" width=\"404\" height=\"205\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Traxxas2640Replacement.jpg 404w, https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Traxxas2640Replacement-300x152.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 404px) 100vw, 404px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><span style=\"text-align: left; line-height: 1.5em;\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>If I didn&#8217;t have enough hobbies already&#8230; \u00a0I&#8217;ve just gotten myself into the world of quadcopters and flying. \u00a0I&#8217;ve never flown before. \u00a0My RC experience is limited to 4 wheels on the ground. \u00a0 \u00a0Navigating with 2 sticks and learning the world of yaw, elevation, pitch and throttle has become my next challenge. \u00a0I&#8217;ve wanted to learn how to fly for some time, so here we go.. I&#8217;m not going to re-create the wheel as &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/2014\/02\/21\/diy-quadcopter-build\/\">Continue reading <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":3625,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[65,57,19],"tags":[96,97,94,95],"class_list":["post-3197","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-arduino-electronics","category-electronics","category-remote-controlled","tag-nanowii","tag-qbrain","tag-quad","tag-quadcopter","has_thumb"],"aioseo_notices":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/Quad11.jpg","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pK41j-Pz","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"post_mailing_queue_ids":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3197","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3197"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3197\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3625"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3197"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3197"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.plastibots.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3197"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}