Just 24 hours earlier I built my first Lost Model Alarm. Not being satisfied with good enough, I’ve built an enhanced version. As mentioned in my original posting, I wanted the alarm to have multiple modes for engagement. First, I wanted to be able to have it triggered while the TX is on using one of the available aux controls. Second, I wanted it to always come on if the TX looses power (or presumably range). I’ve managed to figure out how to do this using the Turnigy 9x Pit Trim pot (Aux 2).
As I foray into the world of FPV, I figured it would be a good idea to have a back-up in the event that I loose my quadcopter in the bushes somewhere. I started searching around for lost model alarms, and came across the LoMA. There are other ideas out there such as GPS/GSM enabled solutions, but I am not ready to go there yet. Using some of the info I gathered, I decided to make my own. This thing is pretty simple – an AtTiny85, a piezo buzzer, resistor and an LED, and it only weighs 6 grams. Before starting, I set-up my TX to have Aux Ch5 go high when triggered. The approach I took here was, in the event of loosing my quad, I would trigger the Aux 5 toggle to turn the alarm on (Yes, I am assuming that this won’t be an out of range situation).
On the receiver side, I have the Ch5 connector wired to the Tiny (diagram below). The TX provides 5V power, GND as well as the servo signal triggered by Aux 5 on the TX. When Aux 5 is enabled, the signal is ~1800, when it is off, the signal is ~1150. The code watches this and triggers the alarm to sound and LED to blink. It can be customized to do pretty much anything such as triggering a relay or other devices on your model. Read More >>
I don’t often do posts that are off-topic to my projects, but I could not resists posting this. Some of my schooling was environmental-related. Paired with moral obligation, myself and my family try to do our part to be environmentally concious. I wanted give praise to 2 companies that I often order electronics parts from for their effort to be environmentally concious with packaging and shipping. Specifically Sparkfun and Adafruit. I recently received my MicroView from Sparkfun and wanted to give you an idea what I am talking about. Have a look at the picture to the right. The product shipped took about half the size of the box. To protect the product, they used a sturdy cardboard box and a thin sheet of recycled paper with a unique cut pattern that makes it an excellent protective material. The most important point – all packaging is recyclable and likely came from recycled paper. Also, the package was sized for product.
Although this is a small step, my hope is that pointing out this sort of thing will encourage other companies / vendors to follow suit and seek similar approaches. All too often we see larger companies (one of them is well known as a lush rainforest and the other is named after some guy) who ship tiny products in massive packaging (I have personally seen this myself). Although they also use cardboard for the most part, it is a complete waste of space and inefficient. One thing I learned in my schooling is you have to think of not only the end product, at but both the upstream and downstream impacts. For example, these larger boxes needed to be created (more paper, fuel, trees etc), transported (more weight, space, fuel, storage etc), then later recycled (again more paper, transport and fuel etc…) I also have to give some credit to overseas sellers I often buy from. Due to these orders being mostly free shipping, they are driven to minimize packaging and costs (which has it’s disadvantages). However, I often see good use of recyclable materials and limited use of plastics etc.
Over the past 2 years, we have working on our back-yard landscaping project. We added a patio, stones, a deck etc. One of the remaining bits was to add LED’s to accent the rocks and other areas at night. After completing my outdoor LED light controller and Andriod app, I found myself struggling to find a way to enclose all the components in something that would protect the controller and power supply from the elements. My original plan was to use the custom CNC enclosure I milled. However, I found that although it was waterproof, I still needed to consider the power supply. I also changed my mind on how I wanted to connect the various power distribution wiring I had coming from around the back yard.
After a bit of digging around, I came across an enclosure made by Spelsberg from Newark. The unit is waterproof, easy to work with and has lots of mounting options. The top cover is smoke, and allows you to see what is inside (gotta show off all the cool electronics and flashing lights you know…), and has a flexible rubber-like strip that provides the water proofing features. There are 4 mounting holes on the outside and 4 plastic locking screws that secure the top cover to the main unit.
The unit has a unique way of getting it mounted which is quite intuitive. There are 4 holes that allow you to mount the unit to a surface. Once mounted, the top cover can be installed with the 4 special black locking screws. They also ensured that the waterproofing strip is on the inside of the screws so it does not matter if water gets in the screw holes – it simply cannot get inside the enclosure.
Let’s cut to the chase. You have a Samsung Galaxy Tab and you are tired of Googling for solutions trying to figure out why your Tab won’t charge. Hopefully this is the last place you have to look. My tab is about 2 yrs old and over the past few months I started noticing it would not charge consistently. I tried all the suggestions; using a different charger, swapping out the cable, disconnecting and re-connecting the battery – none worked. I had also suspected the USB connector port on the tab itself. I should have trusted my first instinct, so I decided to take a look at the charge port on the Tab with my 400x USB microscope, and noticed some significant wear on the pads. Turns out, the fix is ~$5 and less than 10 minutes of effort… Read More >>
I had an Adafruit UP501 GPS module laying around and wanted to get it working on my Quad. However, my serial connection is being used by a bluetooth module which left me with finding a way to get it working over I2C. I found the Crius I2C GPS module and this video which provides some great guidance on how to set things up. However, I was having trouble getting it programmed using the Sparkfun 232RL FTDI breakout board I had as I had not used it for some time and totally forgot how to make the connections between the two, so here you go.
Feb 2014: If I didn’t have enough hobbies already… I’ve just gotten myself into the world of quadcopters and flying. I’ve never flown before. My RC experience is limited to 4 wheels on the ground. Navigating with 2 sticks and learning the world of yaw, elevation, pitch and throttle has become my next challenge. I’ve wanted to learn how to fly for some time, so here we go..
I’m not going to re-create the wheel as credit goes to the folks over at marginallyclever.com for putting together a great build log of the DIY Betamax Quadcopter. In a nutshell, for less than $300 you can build a very capable quad that should give you plenty of fun and also provide the ability to mount some small and light equipment. There’s also lots of optional add-ons like GPS that will make the quad smart and more easy to use. It also uses Arduino-compatible MultiWii which is software that runs on the NanoWii to allow you to control your quad (or other RC machines).
After spending nearly 3 hours scouring the Web trying to find a way to configure my JY-MCU HC-06 Bluetooth module. There are a lot of great tutorials out there. Many of them refer to setting the key pin HIGH, or a combination of LOW then HIGH while powering on the module. However, none of these approaches worked for the unit I have. Read on to see how it can be done. Oddly, I found the answer in the DX discussion forums related to this module. Here’s the thread. Read on for how I managed to get it working.
Wifi Bot Control is an Android app that allows you to remotely control a robot (or other device) via WiFi. You can also (optional) view a video stream from an IP camera mounted to the robot. WiFi Bot Control also provides up to 8 additional customizable command buttons that allow you to perform additional tasks on your robot / device. You could use these commands to initiate other activities such as enabling/disabling sensors, moving other servos / arms / picking something up, turning a LED on/off etc. With the provided sample sketch, you can customize the robot to do what you want. WiFi Bot Control can be downloaded on Google Play and is compatible with most versions of Android and most device sizes from phones to tablets.
Glow Control is an Android app that couples to an Arduino-based controller over Bluetooth allowing for control of various tasks including Landscape / Patio LED lights. You can either schedule the zones to turn on / off within a time range, or use a light sensor to trigger them when it gets dark. It also offers up to 4 additional customizable buttons that allow you to add functionality. You could use it to control garage doors, sprinklers, etc. The sky’s the limit since you can customize the controller and Arduino sketch to your needs. Under the hood Glow Control simply sends commands over Bluetooth to an Arduino controller. If you are a maker, then you can use this app to control pretty much anything you can imagine. For my project, I am using it to control 2 LED zones on my new patio.
**Note – Glo Control is no longer available in Google Play.