LISAMRC ML180 Carbon Fiber Frame Kit

Today we are doing a review of the LISAMRC ML1800 Carbon Fiber Frame Kit.  Not sure what LISAMRC stands for, so I suppose it’s a ‘cool’ factor thing.  Overall, I’m pretty impressed with this micro-sized quad frame kit. It’s well crafted and light.  There are some minor issues, but no show stoppers and nothing you can’t fix with some spare bits.  The following is an unboxing review and observations putting the base kit together.  Sometime in the future, I’ll likely build this into a quad and give it a fly. I just need more parts!

Disclosure: sent me this quad to review.  Thanks for sending this my way GearBest!  Looking forward to a full build.


  • Wlogoeight: 52 grams.  (frame, 4 mounting posts and PDB).
  • Package size (L x W x H): 19.00 x 28.00 x 2.00 cm / 7.48 x 11.02 x 0.79 inches – note video talks about CF thickness.
  • Price: $41 CAD ($31 USD).  (GearBest promised me they would adjust their price to make it competitive with others).
  • Contents: Main Frame, PDB board, Top Frame, FPV camera holder, 6x 21mm mounting posts, 4x 5mm PDB mounting posts, M2.5 mounting screws

Other Parts:

  • Frame Kit
    Battery:  Batteries vary and there is a critical point where a larger battery will slow you down / shorten run time.   I suggest a 3S LiPo 800-1200 mAh.
  • Motors: EMAX 18006 CW  EMAX 1806 CCW


Full Review

Build & Other Comments


Frame Kit
PDB mounted with 5mm mounting posts (bottom) and main 21mm mounting posts (top). The connections would be soldered on the top side of the PDB. They would not be on the underside.
Frame Kit
View from the bottom. Note the PDB. Soldered connectors are between the frame.
Frame Kit
Shows the screw for the front mounting post – which are too short. These are M2.5 screws. So, if you are not mounting a FPV camera, you will need to source some longer screws.
Frame Kit
Showing the front with the FPV mount. If you are going to mount a FPV camera, there are a few issues to watch out for. First of all, I don’t think they intended for both the CF FPV mount AND the 2 AL spacers as there is little room between them (16.5mm) and you cant mount the top frame correctly. I think the expectation is either-or. They did not provide instructions, so I have no clue. Also, the cutout hole they provided for the camera is only 13mm. I have a FatShark TVL 600 which is 14.5mm, so that is not going to work without some mods!
Frame Kit
Here’s a view with only 4 of the pillars + the FPV CF plate. It works, but it is weaker at the front than I would like to see. I can see the camera popping out in a small crash landing – maybe that is a good thing though! Depending on what floats your boat, the camera angle may not be sufficient for flying FPV. This puts the camera about 10 degrees.
Frame Kit
Showing the kit completely assembled. It weighs in at just 52 grams. Feels very solid with a 3mm thickness and the Carbon Fiber is the real deal. Overall, a nice kit for those wanting to fly mini Quads in the 180 class.





  • Nice stiff light (52g) design.
  • 3mm carbon fiber main frame (2mm machined down in areas to save weight).
  • Comes with it’s own PDB board that doubles as a baseplate. However, I will still add some foam pads or 3D print some protectors.
  • lots of room for controller, FPV camera and TX and battery (on top).
  • Motor mounting holes are perfect for 1806-sized motors.
  • Milling is top notch – very professional.
  • Price (once adjusted) is competitive.


  • Screws to mount the front posts are too short.  You’ll need for extra M2.5 screws if you are not using FPV.
  • You likely can’t mount both the front posts and the FPV camera mount at the same time. I doubt this was the intent, but without the posts, the front is flexy and could get damaged in a crash.
  • It uses M2.5 screws  all around, so make sure you have spares.
  • FPV plate cutout hole is ~13mm. This could be an issue for some FPV cameras. My FatShark 600TVL is 14.5mm.
  • The base frame is a single unit.  If you crash, you need to replace the whole frame.



  • Mount the PDB + 5mm red spacers and screws to the bottom first. Of course make sure you soldered your ESCs and power connectors first.
  • The headless hollow scews mount the bottom spacers through the main frame and into the top spacers. Mount the top spacers last.