Given that I can’t leave well enough alone, along comes my latest project.  LulzBotLED4I was trying to both have good lighting on the build platform as well as a stable platform for the web camera.  My first run at a camera mount used a series of flex hose pieces I printed.  However, getting them to snap together required warming them up and press fitting them to each other.  After they cooled down however, the fit was not tight enough and the camera dropped as the printer rattled around while printing.   As for the original LED/controller, it did not cast the light wide enough.  So, on we move…

I decided to build a mount for my Logitech C270 webcam as well as upgrade the LED to something more robust.  The controller was still sufficient to drive the new LEDs (can handle 12V with up to 2A).    The mount attaches to the base of the Y axis idler mount and also has the ability to fold up after the printer is shut down.  It also allows for full movement of the Y axis.   The only trick is that if I ever had a print that took the full dimension of the Y axis, it could push the camera.  However, it would just be pushed back as the design accounts for this.


Note, this requires a mount for the C270 (or your IP cam) as well as an interface to the mounting arm. I used flex arm parts and did some custom work. Links to those parts:
C270 Mount:
Flex Hose:


  • Print all the parts included here, the camera mount and a flex hose.
  • For the camera mount, you can use the tube and screws that come from dismantling the exiting C270 mount. Put those together.
  • You will have to cut down (dremel or hacksaw) the flex hose piece. It needs to be glued inside the upper part of the camera mount arm (the piece that has the curve). My cut was about half.
  • You will also want to take a knife and scrape the rim of the arm so that there is more area for the glue to bond to.
  • Once the mount arm and flex tube glue has dried, you need to insert the ball end of the flex tube piece (mounted to the camera) into the receiving end of the flex tube you cut down earlier.
  • Note – I did this using PLA as it has a low melting temperature. You will need to use some other method if you are using PLA or other materials.

Here’s the trick I figured out for getting the ball and cup pieces together. Boil some water, and put it in a tray or cup. Hold the end of the flex tube part about 5 mm into the water for 5 seconds. Then quickly pop it into the socket. Do not move it and keep it straight. You can hold your fingers around the end to ensure the socket ends are tight.

Source files can be downloaded at Thingiverse here.LulzBotLED4